Description
96-98 Points | The Wine Advocate, Joe Czerwinski
As usual, value hunters should seek out the domaine's tiny production of Crozes-Hermitage, which comes from old vines in Larnage. Nearly always terrific, they sell for a fraction of the price of the estate's Hermitage while being roughly comparable in quality. The legendary Les Rocoules and Le Gréal bottlings are in a class of their own but are often priced accordingly.
The 2020 Hermitage Le Greal looks like another terrific success. A blend of 90% Le Méal and 10% Les Greffieux that includes a small proportion of white grapes, it delivers waves of vibrant raspberry fruit, embedded with nuances of black olive and salted licorice. Full-bodied and intense, weighing in at around 15.5% alcohol, it's a bold, velvety-textured beauty that must be tasted to be believed.
Guillaume Sorrel, Marc's son, officially took over the family domaine after working alongside his father for the 2018 vintage. The 2019s reviewed from bottle are, therefore, his first fully independent efforts. When I arrived at the domaine in the center of Tain l'Hermitage on September 23, 2021, the first grapes of the harvest were being pressed, exactly a month later than in 2020. Sorrel's reds—at least in 2019 and 2020—were all vinified as whole bunches, although he said he didn't think that would be the case in 2021.
Alcohol levels in 2019 and 2020 were pretty high here, a consequence of low yields and high temperatures. Speaking about the 2019 Hermitage Blanc Les Rocoules, Sorrel said his father compares it to 2003, a year "that had no acid but recovered its freshness and is drinking well." Sorrel blocked the malolactic fermentation in all of his 2019 whites, a decision that may give them longer lifespans but which seems to have handicapped them in the near term. Time will tell. I had absolutely no issues with his 2019 reds, which include a stunning Le Gréal. His 2020 reds are similarly impressive.