Description
RP (89-91) - The Wine Advocate - William Kelley
Notes of red berries, cherries and peonies introduce the 2022 Morey-Saint-Denis Cuvée des Grives, a medium to full-bodied, bright and vibrant wine with a pure core of fruit and a saline finish. More ethereal than its Gevrey-Chambertin counterpart, it derives from the domaine's holdings in the upper part of Monts Luisants.
Domaine Ponsot began picking red grapes on September 6, a comparatively early start for this historically late-harvesting domaine, producing a crop of powerful but charming wines that are less overtly broad shouldered than their 2018, 2019 and 2020 counterparts. As ever, complete destemming, minimal sulfites, and élevage in used barrels are the order of the day. The range also includes a Corton Grand Cru Cuvée du Bourdon that had just concluded a late malolactic when I visited and was consequently not entirely put together, and a Cuvée Hypolite, from the domaine's oldest vines planted in 1950s in their original historic parcel of Clos de la Roche, which is more brooding and deeper pitched than the regular cuvée.